BORDEAUX
BORDEAUX
CHATEAU PONTOISE CABARRUS (SAINT SEURIN DE CABOURNE)
CHATEAU JEAN FAURE (ST EMILION)
CHATEAU PONTOISE CABARRUS
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2017 AOC Haut Médoc - Hauts de Plaisance (Merlot, Cab Sav)
2017 AOC Haut Médoc - Cru Bourgeois (Cab.Sav, Merlot, Pet.Verdot)
2016 AOC Haut Médoc - Cru Bourgeois (Cab.Sav, Merlot, Pet.Verdot)
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Positioned on the east side of Saint-Seurin-de-Cadourne commune, along the Gironde-Bordeaux estuary, Château Pontoise Cabarrus is renowned for its Cru Bourgeois. The vineyard sits within the Haut-Médoc appellation, but the land stretches among deep gravelly rises on the Gironde, and across limestone-heavy soils to the west.
Only seven of the 15 hectares of vines were producing grapes when Emile Tereygeol acquired the property in 1959. And so he devoted himself to rectifying this loss, and growing Pontoise’s potential as an ‘en primeur’ estate. Emile’s son François Tereygeol continued on this trajectory when he took over the business in 1973, extending the vineyard to cloak the 28 hectares of gravelly soils that surrounded the original plots. François’ son Eric and friend Jacques Boissenot, renowned oenologists from Médoc, assisted in improving the quality of the vines, and both of François’ sons, Eric and Laurent, continue this aim to constantly work to accentuate the exceptional terroir beneath their feet.
Among this left bank region of Bordeaux, Château Pontoise Cabarrus produces full bodied, fruit-driven reds, with fine grained tannins. For the estate’s Cru Bourgeois, the Tereygeol family selects the best parcels of grapes from old vines along with the best barrels to make their premium wine. To create this powerfully concentrated drop, they blend Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, and Cabernet Franc.
The proximity to the estuary and deep, well-draining gravelly soils create a unique microclimate that assists in developing the incomparable expression of the Cabernet Sauvignon, which is the main grape varietal of the Grand Crus of Haut-Médoc. Once the grapes have matured throughout September, the berries are tasted each day to observe the optimal time for harvest. Since 1981, the family has harvested the grapes by machine, before sorting manually on a conveyor belt. Merlot is picked first, followed by Cabernet Franc, then Cabernet Sauvignon and lastly Petit Verdot. Alike to other Bordeaux wines, these are barrel aged for 12–14 months in new French oak, along with a small portion of barrels that have been used once before.
The name ‘Cru Bourgeois’ is a quality classification bestowed to red wines cultivated in the Médoc, which originated in the 18th century. The classification has seen several adaptions since its beginnings, and the Alliance des Crus Bourgeois du Médoc plans to reintroduce a three-tiered measure of quality in 2020—Cru Bourgeois, Cru Bourgeois Supérieur, and Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel.
CHATEAU JEAN FAURE (ST EMILION)
BIODYNAMIC
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2019 AOC Saint Emilion “La Reserve” (Cabernet Franc, Merlot)
2019 AOC Saint Emilion Grand Cru (Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec)
“Wonderfully floral cherry notes on the nose here - ripe, vibrant and appealing. Such great juicy impact, strawberries, cherries and redcurrants, really just hits the palate with brightness, energy and verve. An approachable style but with lots of layers, great acidity and a cooling menthol undertone. Really enjoyable with underlying power and precision. Excellent.” Decanter 95
2018 AOC Saint Emilion Grand Cru (Merlot, Cab Franc, Malbec)
“Another over-achiever in the vintage, the 2018 Château Jean Faure checks in as 65% Cabernet Franc, 30% Merlot, and 5% Malbec, which comes from a great terroir not far from Cheval Blanc, Figeac, and Ripeau. Sporting a vivid purple color and incredibly floral, elegant aromas and flavors, it hits the palate with full bodied richness, a seamless texture, building tannins, and a great finish. The Cabernet Franc plays the lead role at this point, and this is going to benefit from 2-4 years of bottle age.” Jeb Dunnuck 93-95
2016 AOC Saint Emilion Grand Cru (Merlot, Cab Franc, Malbec)
“A dense and linear fruit and tannin structure to this wine. Full body and chewy tannins. Fresh and long. Gorgeous already. Much better than the 2015.” James Suckling 93-94
2014 AOC Saint Emilion Grand Cru (Merlot, Cab Franc, Malbec)
“50% Cabernet Franc as well as a little Malbec. Fragrant and expressive - dark fruit, cherry and liquorish notes. Beautiful texture. Fine but strong tannins Lovely length and freshness on the fi nish. Real line and length.” Decanter 17.25 / 20
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Entrepreneurial winemaker Olivier Decelle acquired this domain in the illustrious Saint-Émilion region of Bordeaux in 2004, with a vision of bringing the neglected vineyard back to life.
The estate has existed since the 18th century, and once held the appellation of Grand Cru Classé (which it lost in 1986). Decelle’s aim was to restore the vineyard’s health back to this esteemed level, and after eight years, he succeeded in 2012. In 2014, he took this trajectory further by starting to convert his 18 hectares of vines to organics and biodynamic methods.
The domain is situated next to the renowned Château de Cheval Blanc and Château Figeac, and under Decelle’s natural farming practices and considered vinification, Château Jean Faure has returned to the level of finesse expected of a top-tier Saint-Émilion estate.
The 45-year-old vines are a mix of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Malbec, which are rooted in a clay and iron-rich soil. Decelle has focused on returning microbial life to the terroir, prioritising the health of the soil and the fauna, and managing the vineyard with respect. Mechanical ploughing between rows is being gradually replaced by horse-drawn tilling, with five horses required for this process.
The estate’s wine is a blend of 50% Cabernet Franc, 45% Merlot and 5% Malbec. Grapes are harvested by hand, placed in small crates and sorted twice. The whole grapes remain intact, and natural winemaking procedures are implemented, without the use of yeast or intervention. Long periods in vats ensure aromas are gently extracted to better express the terroir. The wine is then matured in French oak barrels (60% new barrels and 40% in barrels used once before) for 18 months, with part of the wine aged in large demi-muids and casks. The wine matures on fine lees to conserve the aromatic freshness and enhance the wine’s fine potential.